Drywalling Tips

There's a couple of things about drywalling, and I wanna make one thing very clear. I get a lot of questions and I see a lot of mistakes about this. Number one, when you finish drywall, when you mud it, you're gonna need to put three coats of mud on that drywall. Don't think that you can go through there and just put one thick coat, it's not gonna work.

Drywall mud shrinks when it drys and when that happens, you might get little cracks and especially if you do a really thick coat like that.

So you're gonna go and you're gonna put a fairly thin layer of mud down. And then you'll tape. And then you just wanna flatten that out so that there's no air bubbles or places where there isn't any mud in contact with the tape.

Now mudding is a little bit of an art. So I'm not gonna be able to describe to you exactly how to do it and you're just gonna do it right. It's gonna take some practice, but you don't want a whole lot of mud left over. Spend a little time on it, but again it's something that you're gonna have to take some practice at and you'll get better at it.

Then you're gonna let that coat dry. If you're just using regular mud, like you get in a home improvement store, then you're probably gonna let it sit at least a day you'll come back the next day and you're gonna do your second coat, but you're gonna use a wider knife. With the first coat, you use maybe like a 4 inch knife. With the second coat, you might jump up to an 8 or 10 inch knife. And then your last coat, you're gonna do the same thing, put it on there, make it nice and smooth and let it dry.

Your last coat, you're gonna try to get an even bigger knife, like a 12 inch knife. When you're first starting to do this, you might need to sand in between coats. You're gonna very lightly sand, do not over sand your mud because you're gonna just take it right off again. One of the goals here of using the mud is, you have to have a little bit of a layer there and you're gonna create avery gradual and almost un-noticable hump. But it's got to cover that paper. If there's not enough mud to cover the paper or the screw hole, whatever it is, then you're gonna see it through the paint and that's not what you want.

So if you are having to sand between coats because maybe you've got some ridges there that just are gonna make it real hard for you to put the next coat on, sand very lightly, just enough to knock down those ridges. Dont' try to just completely eliminate them, just knock them down and then try to mud over the whole thing. Do your second coat. You want everything to be wider. If you're doing joints, make sure that you widen up that joint, widen up the mud so that it spreads out farther because you're gonna want to try to thin it out towards the edges.

Then you've got your third coat and hopefully it's a final coat. You're gonna try to make everything look real pretty now. One tool that is really gonna be helpful to you right now is a halogen light. Make sure you put it on an angle with the wall. And what that's gonna do is create some serious shadow contrast. Any imperfections in the wall are gonna look a lot worse. So most of the time you're gonna be able to catch any of the problems right here.

Make sure that light's on there. That it's making shadows. And then when you go through and you mud, make sure that you cover up everything that needs to be covered. You will be able to come back and either sand or lightly sponge down the wall.

I personally prefer sponging. So any kinda work that has to be done after I mud, I'll usually do it with sponging. I don't like the dust from the drywall and I really like the kinda smoothed out and spread out look that sponging gives you. If you haven't tried that, go to your home improvement store and see if they've got in the drywall section a sponge with a little, it's kinda like got a brilo pad side to it and then the other side is just a regular sponge. So you can use that brilo pad for some really rough spots and use the sponge to smooth everything out.

Now aside from your joints, I also wanna point out your screws because this is an area where a lot of people try to skimp on because, let's face it, there are a lot of screws. If you go in and you do a remodel job you might have a lot of screws and some people don't want to deal with them. With the screws, it's just as important, you've gotta have three coats on there.

Also I wanna give you a little trick, a technique that'll help you get a better job and get through it quicker. Instead of just smearing on a little bit of mud on one screw and wiping it off, and going to the next one, smear and wipe. Take your knife and your mud and do a streak down the wall, let's say you've got three screws vertically. Okay. Take you knife and wipe it down the wall so that you now have a white stripe kinda going from the top screw, all the way across to the middle one and all the way down to the bottom one. So one long wipe. And then you're gonna take your knife and wipe that up and flatten it out.

At this point don't push real hard, you're wanting mostly to get a lot of mud inside the screw hole. And then you don't wanna try to wipe everything back off because you're gonna actually build up a bit of a layer here. This is gonna do three things. It's gonna make the application of the mud go a lot quicker and second it's gonna make your sanding job a lot easier. Cause you're just gonna sand over one big broad area. And another thing it's gonna do is make the finished job look better.

A lot of times I walk into a house and I see little flat circular spots on the wall. And I can always tell that's where a drywall screw is because that kind of thing justshows right through the paint.

So with this technique, what you're gonna do on the second coat is actually use a bigger knife again, and you're gonna broaden that strip out so that it covers a larger area. You're gonna try to feather things out. When I get done with a wall. When I've done the screws, it almost looks like I have several butt joints down the wall, every few feet so. Because the third coat of mud is so wide, it's about 10 or 12 inches wide, just for those screws. But when the final job is done and the wall is painted, it looks a lot flatter, it feels a lot flatter, and you can not see those imperfections in the wall.

Garbage Disposal Maintenance

This week I've got a little bit of helpful information on your garbage disposal.

This is another one of those things where a lot of times people will make a call to a plumber, and that's usually a call that does not need to be made and you're going to spend a lot of money that you can probably just keep in your pocket. So let's get right to it.

A garbage disposal is an appliance that mounts underneath your sink. It's an electric motor and it's essentially got this wheel on it with some, kinda like impeller blades. Well, that spins real fast and the goal is for it to chop up all the debris that gets put down your sink. And that’s supposed to be mainly just food waste, right? So that stuff gets hit by these spinning blades and it gets ground into much tinier pieces. And those pieces will then flush down the drain pipe. A lot of times also if there’s a dishwasher in the kitchen, then that dishwasher’s also gonna connect to the garbage disposal and then anything that’s collected in the dishwasher is also gonna end up getting dumped down the garbage disposal.

One of the most common things that happens to this appliance is that it gets jammed. So I’m gonna tell you how you can free that up, and there’s also some maintenance tips we can perform on our garbage disposal and I’m gonna show you some of those too.

Now, before you do anything with a garbage disposal, it’s important that there’s no power to it. So you’re gonna open your cabinet doors, look underneath there, locate the garbage disposal, it’s probably a big black or chrome, large, cylindrical looking object attached to the bottom of one of your drains. There should be an electrical wire at the bottom of that, and follow that to the wall. Most likely, it’s just plugged in so you can simply unplug it, and then it’s safe to work on it.

If it’s actually hard-wired and there’s no way to just unplug it, then you’re gonna have to find the circuit breaker or fuse in some cases, where you can turn the power off to that appliance because you do not want some kind of accident happening an that thing getting turned on while you’re working on it.

So once you’ve got it shut off and it’s safe, the first thing that we’re gonna do to free it up, and let’s assume that it’s just jammed and it won’t turn, on the bottom of the disposal you’re probably gonna find a little place where there’s a hole for a hex wrench. And for those of you that don’t know, this is a six sided hexagon shape, it’s gonna probably be fairly tiny. The hole for this hex wrench is gonna be maybe an eighth of an inch or a quarter of an inch in size, or diameter. And if it does have one of these, sometimes the manufacturer places this hex wrench in a little pouch and it’ll be attached somewhere on the garbage disposal. So if that’s the case, you can just use that. If not, you’re gonna have to locate one that’s of the same size. Don’t try using something that is not meant for it, so in other words, don’t try using a flat-head screwdriver. Don’t try using a hex wrench that does not fit it properly, cause you do not want to strip it out and you might have to tweak on it pretty good so you want something that fits and something that’s actually meant for it.

So to get that flywheel turning again, you’re gonna put the hex wrench in there, and then you’re gonna give it a little pull. And you’re gonna try to spin it around in both directions. Try to spin it all the way around clockwise, and then try to spin it all the way around counter-clockwise. Do that a couple of times and make sure that it’s now spinning freely. More often than not, this alone fixes any kind of jamming problem where the disposal’s not spinning.

Another kind of problem that you can have would be a leak. And there’s two main places where a disposal can leak, either hoses that are attached to it, or seals that are like gaskets. So what I like to do is just kinda rub my hand around the disposal, touching it everywhere and feeling for wet spots. That’s gonna help you find where it’s actually leaking at. If you can see water dripping, that’s obviously a bonus. Tighten up any fittings that are attaching hoses to the disposal. If you can’t find the leak around hoses, then probably, especially if the leak is right underneath the disposal, probably it’s actually leaking through the flywheel seal.

Now if that’s the case, you gonna have to take the disposal out. You’ll be required to disassemble it and locate that seal and find a replacement for it. If that’s too much for you, you can take the disposal itself into a repair shop and have them do it for you.

And the last thing we’re gonna talk about is, believe it or not, those impeller blades inside the disposal, they do get dull. A lot of times, when it seems like the disposal just doesn’t work too good, that’s because those blades are dull and at that point, sometimes people will go out and just buy another disposal. That’s not really necessary, those blades can be sharpened and they can be replaced.

Last time I checked, a new garbage disposal is gonna be like a minimum $55 or $60, but in this case, if the motor’s spinning real good and you can tell that the flywheel is spinning around and the disposal seems like it’s not chewing things up right, you’re gonna want to sharpen or replace those blades. So you’re gonna have to again, take the whole thing out, you’ll have to remove the fittings, remove the disposal out from underneath the sink and then you’re gonna have to take the disposal apart.

Now, if you wanna try your nack at sharpening, sometimes you can even do that with the impellers still in place. In other cases you might have to remove them. If you’re getting a lot of clogged drains in your kitchen, if water keeps filling up in there and it’s kinda like a slow drain, then chances are this is what your problem is and it’s just draining very slowly because the food is not getting chewed up like it’s supposed to. A lot of times, if you can get those impeller blades off the disposal, you can take them to a grinding machine and just sharpen them that way.

If they’re beyond repair and you can’t get them sharpened, you’re gonna have to replace the whole flywheel assembly because more than likely you won’t be able to find the impeller blades themselves.

Leaky Faucet Repair - Drip

We're gonna try something new today, I'm thinking about starting a podcast for www.home-improvement4u.com, so this is the test pilot! Make sure you check it out and let me know what you think. You don't have to read the article, you can hear me instead!



Today I've got a tip for you to stop your faucet from dripping. This is one of the most common problems out there in bathrooms and I get calls like this all the time. In fact, here at the orphanage I just had to do something yesterday relating to this. What we have is a situation where there's a seal, it's actually a washer, inside the faucet, that's not sealing right and that causes the faucet to drip no matter how hard you turn the handles off. Not only is this a big waste of water, but that dripping sound can certainly be annoying. If you have a repair man come out to fix something like this, you could pay anywhere between $50 and $100 to have them come out to do this. And it's something that you could do yourself and it doesn't take a lot of effort, it does take a little bit of time though. The instructions that I'm gonna give you are for a double handled compression faucet. So this isn't going to apply if you've got one of those single handles that rocks back and forth, this is just for an old fashioned double handle.

The first thing you want to do is shut the water off to that faucet. Underneath the sink or behind the pedistal there should be some shutoff valves there. You can either shut both of them off, or if you want just shut the cold water off and see if the faucet stops dripping. If it does, then you know the problem is with the cold side of the faucet. If that doesn't stop it, try the hot water and as long as your shutoff valves are working, you'll have your drip off. If you think you've located which handle is giving you the problem, what you're gonna do is remove a screw that's on top of that handle. Sometimes there's a little decal or button on there, possibly labeled H for hot or C for cold. Usually that will flip up, with something like a pocket knife. Be careful not to scratch the finish of the faucet. You can usually pop the cover off pretty easy and then unscrew it and pull the handle off.

Then you're going to use an adjustable wrench, like a crescent wrench, and loosen a nut and remove the whole stem and pull that whole assembly out. Now at the bottom of that stem is a rubber washer and that's held in place by a screw usually. Take the screw off and you're gonna take this rubber washer to the hardware store with you to make sure that you get the same size and thickness. Before you do that, feel down inside the faucet and there's what's called a seat down in there. Feel to see if that's rough. This is where the rubber washer is pushed up against when the faucet is in the off position. If the seat gets real rough, then the washer gets torn up and that's why your faucet is leaking.

If that's the case you're gonna have to either replace the seat, if it can be replaced, but if it's not removable then you're gonna have to dress it. There's a tool called a seat wrench and that can be used to remove and replace the seat, if it is removable. There's also a seat dressing tool to smooth the surface of that seat, if it's not removable. Either way you want to take care of that seat problem first, if it exists, before you try to replace that washer otherwise the new washer's just gonna get messed up too.

So then, after the seat's taken care of, we're gonna put the new washer back in place. Put that screw back on there, you've gotta save all these parts. Put them in a little container so you don't lose anything. And then put that stem back in the faucet. Tighten the packing nut. Replace the handle and put the screw back on that holds the handle in place and then if you had one of those little caps make sure you put that back on as well.

Then you should be good to go. Turn your water back on at the shut-off valve and check your faucet out. Open and close it. Make sure that everything is sealed properly and your drip should be gone.

I'm Ken Walker, this is Home-Improvement4u.com. Definately stop by and visit our forum and our website at http://www.home-improvement4u.com/.